Proper Dog Bathing Technique & choosing the right Shampoos & Conditioners for Dogs

Dr.Aashutosh Mishra

Touring Veterinary Officer , Animal And Fisheries Resources Department, Government of Bihar

 

Proper Dog Washing Technique & choosing the right Shampoos & Conditioners for Dogs

 

Determining which shampoo to use for your dog can be confusing so I am going to help walk you through the pros and cons of the different types available. Some dogs may have special skin and coat needs because of their diet, environment or the like. Likewise, depending on your specific breed the shampoo you choose can make a visible difference in the health of their coat and skin.

Dogs have more sensitive skin than humans so as most people know, human products should never be used on your fur baby. Canine skin is prone to conditions like dermatitis, allergies, and even sunburn. Dogs also require a different pH balance, so the first and most important step is to choose a shampoo specifically formulated for dogs.

Depending on the size of your dog & the bathing frequency they require, a single bottle of shampoo should last quite a while so you shouldn’t feel bad about paying a little more for a good quality dog shampoo.

Dogs have very sensitive skin that is half the thickness of human skin and has a very different pH balance. So to ensure you don’t irritate the skin, avoid using human products or soaps on your dog and instead use products that have been specifically designed with your dog’s coat and skin in mind.

There is much debate within the pet community as to whether human shampoo should be used on dogs. Even though human shampoo will clean your dog, this doesn’t necessarily make it a safe option. Although your dog’s fur may appear soft and shiny, its skin could really suffer as a result.

The pH balance, the acid mantle and a dog’s skin

The top layer of skin, called the stratum corneum, is protected by a thin layer known as the acid mantle, which prevents the skin from coming into contact with viruses, bacteria and contaminants. The acid mantle is also responsible for keeping the body hydrated by absorbing water and reducing evaporation. As bathing and washing strips the skin of its acid mantle, most shampoos and soaps contain ingredients that moisturise and protect the skin until the acid mantle renews itself. For the acid mantle to work efficiently, there needs to be a proper balance between acidity and alkalinity, known as the pH balance.

Dogs and humans have very differing Ph balances. The normal skin balance for humans on the pH scale is 5.5 to 5.6 which leans to the acidic side, whereas dogs have a normal balance of 6.2 to 7.4 which is more neutral. As human shampoo is tailored to a more acidic acid mantle, using it on dogs can disrupt theirs, leaving their skin dry and flaky and more seriously, vulnerable to parasites, bacteria and viruses. The irritation can encourage scratching too which can lead to abrasions and wounds forming and an increased chance of bacteria taking hold. So, whilst it might seem like a good idea to use human shampoo on your dog, it can actually be very damaging to their skin.

A high-quality pet shampoo and conditioner must always have a few vitally important components:

1) A pH value that is especially formulated for a dog’s delicate skin (between 6.5 to 7.5),  since a dog’s skin pH is more neutral than a human’s. The pH of dog’s skin is about 7.5 where a human’s skin is about 5.5, on the standard pH scale from 0 to 14. The pH scale measures how acidic or basic a substance is. A pH of 7 is neutral (pure water has a pH of 7.0). A pH less than 7 is acidic, where each whole pH value below 7 is ten times more acidic than the next higher value. For example, pH 4 is ten times more acidic than pH 5 and 100 times (10 times 10) more acidic than pH 6. The same holds true for pH values above 7, each of which is ten times more alkaline than the next lower whole value.

A dog’s skin is very close to a neutral pH, and significantly more alkaline than human skin, so the kind of shampoo you use on your dog should be much more neutral in pH than the typical pH value of shampoo formulated for human hair (“pH balanced” shampoos for humans are around 4.5-5.5, making them much more acidic, and ultimately very irritating to a dog’s coat and skin). Over time, acidic shampoos also strip away the hair’s protective qualities, removing valuable oil from the coat and skin, resulting in dry, irritated skin and a dull coat. Never use human shampoo on your dog… even though it’s okay to use your dog’s .

2) Mild cleansing ingredients; ideally soap-free. Soap can dry skin, remove necessary skin oils, and leave irritating and drying residue.

3) Easy to rinse out so nothing is left behind on the fur or skin.

4)  Moisturizing ingredients and conditioners to help the skin and coat maintain their healthy feel and shine.

What not to use

There are many home-made remedies for various skin maladies and parasites. And while some may be perfectly safe, often they are based on human skin needs. Generally if something is safe for humans, that does not necessarily mean it is safe for our pets. Humans don’t tend to lick themselves when grooming, while dogs do, so we must be aware that some things can be toxic when ingested.

In particular, avoid tea tree products. Tea tree is antibacterial and antiseptic, but if the tea tree in a product is in sufficient concentration to have all the purported benefits, it will be toxic if consumed.

Itchy skin

If your dog has itchy skin, consider a medicated shampoo, perhaps even an oatmeal shampoo such as Aloveen. Shampoos with aloe vera and oatmeal are particularly soothing.

Frequent skin infections

If your dog is prone to dermatitis and bacterial or fungal flare-ups using a medicated shampoos that contains miconazole or chlorhexidine may be recommended by your Veterinarian. These shampoos can be drying, so should only be used on medical recommendation.

Greasy skin

If your dog is quite smelly or greasy a shampoo such as Sebolyse may help. This shampoo is also antibacterial and antifungal, two other sources of smelly skin. Medicated shampoos really need a long contact time of 5-10 minutes, so read the label to work out how long you must leave the shampoo on for.

Flaky skin

Dogs that have dry, flaky skin will do well with Aloveen or a very gentle shampoo and a good brush to redistribute the natural oils through the coat, They may also benefit from fish oils, particularly in the form of Dermoscent, with the correct ratio of omega 3s and omega 6s. Shampooing can actually dry the skin, so backing off with the baths might also help for dogs with dry skin.

Normal skin

If your dog has fairly normal skin, with no flakes, grease or excessive smell, using a natural pet shampoo is fine. Aim for a good quality shampoo. Aloveen is also a great shampoo to use for normal skin.

Do I need a conditioner?

If you have a nice gentle shampoo, a conditioner is not necessary. Conditioners can help with a dry coat, and are often left in. Conditioners can also be applied in between baths if your dog is getting a little smelly and you don’t have time for the full bath. They can help to mask that doggy smell.

Do I need to bath my dog?

If your dog is not smelly, doesn’t tend to roll in things at the park and doesn’t swim, there may be no need to bath your pet at all. A good brush can do a great job of redistributing the oils in the coat and gives a nice healthy shine.

Proper Dog Washing Technique

When you have chosen the right place and have the right products ready to use, the real fun begins. Here’s the bathing process our pros recommend:

1. Coax or place your dog in the tub or wash station. Treats are a great way to get the process off to a positive start!
2. Dilute the shampoo with water. Try adding some to a bowl full of water, or put the shampoo in a dispenser that contains water. Diluting shampoo helps it suds up and spread better. Easton explains that most shampoo is thick and concentrated, and adding water can make it easier to use.
3. Wet your dog using warm water. Checking the temperature with your hand is just fine, Easton says.
4. Shampoo the dog twice. The first time, the shampoo binds with the dirt and helps get rid of it. The second go-around, you’re really washing the skin and pulling out all the remaining dirt and oil in the hair. Use conditioner. Leave it on for a few minutes and then rinse away.
5. Rinse well until there is no more product on the fur. “You want to scrub them really good, but you also want to make sure that all of the soap is out.

 

How to Wash a Dog’s Face 

Washing your dog’s head is one of the trickiest parts of the dog bathing process. You don’t want to get soap or water in sensitive areas like your dog’s ears, nose, and eyes. Easton recommends you save this part for the end of the bath, and suggests using a washcloth to clean your pet’s face.

Dip the cloth in soapy water, carefully wash your dog’s head and face, and then dip a clean washcloth into clear water and use that to rinse.

Even if you’re using a puppy shampoo that’s designed to be easier on the eyes, shampoo can still hurt them, so you’ll want to avoid the eye area as much as possible. If shampoo does get in your dog’s eyes, have an eye wash on hand that you can use.

How to Bathe a Dog that Hates Water

Although some dog breeds love water (we’re looking at you, golden retrievers), many dogs shudder at just the sound of the bath faucet turning on. To combat this, try giving your dog lots of positive reinforcement during the bath. Praise is good; treats are even better! Give your dog positive associations to remember for next time he sees you gathering the dog shampoo.

It’s also helpful to have a partner hold the dog while you’re giving him a bath, Easton says. And, if possible, start giving your dog a bath when he’s a puppy to help him get used to bath time.

What to Do Post-Bath

First, towel-dry your dog as best you can. Then, use either a dog-specific hairdryer or a human one on a medium or cool setting. Easton recommends brushing your dog as he dries. You also could air-dry your dog, as long as he doesn’t get chills or shiver too much.

If you’re air-drying your dog, “Every 10 or 15 minutes run a brush through them as they’re drying and that’ll help prevent mats or help separate mats if they have them,” Easton says.

Your reward for bath time: A dog that looks and smells fresh. And the knowledge that you’ve done something nice for your pooch’s health and handsomeness.

 

How often should a dog be bathed?

There is no simple answer to provide the ideal solution for each situation. However, simple awareness of the above issues is a good starting point. One’s nose is a good indicator: if the dog is a bit whiffy then it’s a good time to bath it! Certainly, if the dog has dandruff it needs help and some simple but properly formulated shampoos may be all that is needed. Some dogs may only need a bath every few months while some may need bathing twice a week or more.

Can human shampoos be used?

A very simple but firm answer is: no – never! This is because the pH of human skin is acidic (pH 5.5 to 6.5) and all human shampoos are formulated to take this natural acidity into account. The pH of dog’s skin is mildly alkaline – pH 7.5 to 8 or slightly more in some areas. It is therefore obvious that human shampoos are very definitely not to be used on dogs – they are the wrong pH! The use of shampoos in dogs There is a series of fundamental goals aimed at the routine maintenance of healthy skin or in the successful alleviation of a variety of skin disorders:

• control surface micro-organisms;
• remove crusts and scales;
• restore epidermal turnover rate to the norm, i.e. 21 days;
• restore correct hydration, i.e. water balance, in the skin;
• remove parasites;
• remove allergens.

Medicated, suitably formulated shampoos when used properly are ideally suited to provide fast and effective relief of clinical signs associated with scaling and pruritic skin disorders. To benefit from shampoo therapy, it is important to know the types of shampoo available and when they should be used. Proper use of shampoos is of utmost importance to achieve the maximum effect. First, contact time of five to 15 minutes allows for hydration of the skin and provides sufficient time for penetration and action of the shampoo ingredients. Water in itself is an excellent skin hydrator, but if not left on long enough, evaporation and drying of the surface layers of the skin may result. Too long a contact time will result in the “dishpan hands” syndrome, whereby the skin becomes macerated. It is difficult to judge time, especially when a wet, soggy, 60kg Newfoundland is ready to shake and fight in order to get out of the tub. An egg timer or watch should be used to monitor the contact time. The frequency of bathing is also important. While common sense would dictate that the time to bathe a dog is when it is dirty, the interval between bathing is based on the presence of skin disease as well as the shampoo being used.
Commonly, shampooing may be required two to three times a week until adequate control of scale, grease and odour is achieved. Thereafter, a maintenance frequency of once weekly or once monthly may be all that is needed. Maintenance shampoo therapy is also dictated by seasonal influences. Variations in heat and humidity affect dryness, scaliness, greasiness, and the tendency to develop secondary bacterial infections. Lastly, shampooing technique must be considered. The mechanical process of shampooing is beneficial in that it helps to remove crusts, scales, dirt, organisms and residual medication. All too often, however, the underside of the pet, which is frequently the most severely affected area, is neglected. Shampooing the entire pet and rinsing thoroughly will provide optimal results and decrease the irritating effects shampooing might have. One must bear in mind that shampooing rarely cures a skin condition. In some cases, cure is not possible, e.g. canine atopic skin disease, or the deep root cause could be, for example, a complex hormonal disorder. Before we move on to the specific shampoos for specific skin conditions, let us make clear some definitions of some of the terminology used in dermatological therapy and then we will look at the ingredients used in shampoos:

• keratolytic – removes top two or three layers of squames;
• keratoplastic – slows down rate of reproduction of basal cells at the base of the epidermis;
• emollient – softens and soothes the skin;
• humectant – moistens or moisturises the skin;
• conditioner – reduces static electricity and adds “body” to hair by closing up the scales on each hair shaft, making them reflect the light so the hair coat shines;
• astringent – causes contraction of small blood vessels and so stops secretion or “weeping”.

THE SHAMPOOS:

What’s in them and why? Benzoyl peroxide (BPO)

• keratolytic – removes at least top two or three layers of squames from the skin surface;
• follicular flusher – washes out oils and debris within the hair follicles (really deep cleanser);
• potent antimicrobial – kills bacteria/fungi/yeasts very rapidly on contact;
• potent degreasing agent;
• main use – pyoderma: good idea to use with humectant as BPO is very drying so there is a requirement to put back the moisture that BPO will take out;
• never use where skin is dry in first place.

Sulphur

• keratoplastic – restores epidermal turnover rate to normal;
• keratolytic;
• follicular flusher (mild);
• antimicrobial – bacteria/fungi/yeasts;
• anti-pruritic;
• main use – scaling defects (seborrhoea). Salicylic acid
• keratolytic;
• bacteriostatic, i.e. stops bacteria from reproducing;
• anti-pruritic (mildly);
• main use – scaling defects (seborrhoea): frequently used in combination with sulphur in shampoos designed to combat scaling disorders.

Urea/lactic acid

• hygroscopic – attracts water to skin;
• emollient;
• humectant;
• lactic acid mildly antibacterial;
• main use – mild, dry scaling defects (seborrhoea); routine rinse/spray to keep skin hydrated.

Piroctone olamine

Developed in the human pharmaceutical industry as an effective anti-dandruff agent (dandruff in humans is caused by a cousin of our Malassezia fungus – Malassezia furfur).

• potent antibacterial activity and is active against a wide range of Gram +ve and Gram –ve bacteria, including Staph. intermedius;
• potent fungicide – active against fungi such as Malassezia spp. Ethyl lactate Breaks down on contact with the skin to form:
• lactic acid (see above);
• ethanol – potent bacteriocide;
• main use – surface pyoderma, i.e. mild bacterial skin infections.

Oils – glycerine, propylene glycol

• cosmetic – apply shine, useful for dog/cat shows;
• prevent water loss through skin so useful for dry skin conditions;
• conditioning – these oils are naturally positively charged so tend to neutralise the natural negative charge on the hair coat;
• humectant;
• main use – good looks and routine conditioning/management of dry scaling conditions.

Chlorhexidine

• antifungal;
• antibacterial – has a useful residual effect in that chlorhexidine binds to keratin and a single application can last for several days;
• generally well-tolerated;
• main use – pyoderma.

Miconazole

• ntifungal – active against Malassezia;
• main use – Malassezia dermatitis, severe greasy scaling disorders.

Olefin sulphonate

• well-tolerated, tried and tested cleanser; non soap compound hypoallergenic;
• main use – routine cleansing.

Hamamelis (witch hazel)

• astringent;
• main use – “hotspots”: highly irritated, pruritic small areas, often caused by insect bites in the summer months.

Oatmeal

• anti-pruritic – often used in human medicine for the treatment/relief of psoariasis;
• main use – general soothing shampoo, especially useful in the relief of flea allergy dermatitis.

 

Bathing

 

1. Brush your pooch gently to remove all excess hair. Have a few towels, your favorite, natural dog shampoo and conditioner, ear wipes, and treats.
2. Hosing outdoors is easiest, yet when indoors use the bathtub if your pooch does not mind. Dogs enjoy being bathed indoors and outdoors. If using a regular bathtub, line the bath with a bath mat or towel to prevent your dog from slipping. Check the water to make sure that the water temperature is lukewarm, and not hot.
3. During the summer it’s easiest and more convenient to bathe your dog outside with the spray hose. With all outdoor hoses, you will need to most importantly check the water temperature to make sure that the water is not ice cold or very hot.
4. Begin by washing Fido’s front end thoroughly, and then proceed to his front legs. It is necessary that the shampoo penetrates the dog’s skin. With dogs that have a double coat this may take longer.
5. After washing your dog’s front half, start with his head, but avoid getting shampoo in his eyes and ears. You will benefit from the ear wipes later on.
6. Next, start washing your dog’s back end and hindquarters, praising him all the while if he is nervous. Do not forget to wash his tail, and to rinse this part of the body very well. Some long-haired dog breeds like Shepherds, English Sheepdog and Retrievers have thicker coats, and the washing and rinsing process will take longer. Always have patience and lots of time to allow for delays in case your dog acts up or needs a break in-between grooming.

Rinsing

 

1. This is easy-to-do, and needs to start from front to back using luke warm water.
2. Rinse thoroughly, all the while checking that no shampoo is left on your dog. You can run your hands on the coat to check for sudsy residue. Keep rinsing until you’re 100% sure that all the shampoo has been rinsed off your pooch.
3. Check that all the shampoo is completely rinsed off, most especially from his head, underneath his tail and between his legs. Using a shower hose makes this an easy process because you have control over where the water goes. Repeat the rinsing process twice and go over your dog’s entire body to make sure that all the shampoo and conditioner has been rinsed off. Keep in mind that any slippery or gooey patches indicate patches of dog shampoo are still on your pooch.
4. After your dog has been rinsed, he’ll want to have a good shake. Allow him to do so, and then continue towel drying him, checking his ears and under his chin for excess water. If he is a long haired breed, do not rub the towel on his fur, but squeeze his body lightly with a few towels. This prevents all those unwanted tangles. You can even teach him the command ‘Shake It’ when drying him and reward each time after he “shakes” it off.
5. You can use the hair dryer set on cool to lightly dry long fur. Never set the dryer on high!
6. Brush your dog’s coat to remove all excess hair, and to prevent hair from matting and tangling.
7. Wet dog hair that has matted or is badly tangled needs to be trimmed off because it will not untangle, no matter which dog grooming products you use.

After bath time your dog will want to race around, and have plenty of fun! This is a natural part of bath time that helps him get rid of bath time stress, and shake off any lingering drops of water.

Drying time

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It’s always recommended to place an old towel under your dog when you will be drying him. This prevents your dog from slipping off. Today pet parents can purchase grooming table toppers that fit on to a table. These also work by absorbing excess water from your dog’s paws while he sits.

Dryers should be dog safe, Traditional hair dryers need to be set on a low volume, so as not to burn your dog. If you’re not into drying your dog with a dryer, opt for products like Zip N Dri that zip onto a dog’s body and remove excess water.

Wipes for Eyes

Dogs have sensitive eyes, and when washing your furry best friend, you will have to be especially careful not to let shampoo run. Opt for gentle shampoos with no harsh chemicals.

Some dog breeds like Poodles are more apt to developing “sleep” near the corners of their eyes.

When cleaning around your dog’s eyes, use cotton balls moistened with water. There are also numerous tear stain products for dogs that help with these unsightly tear stains, especially in light-colored dogs such as Poodles, Shih Tzu’s, Lhasa Apso’s and Yorkshire Terriers.

Protect Your Dog’s Ears

If you’re just starting off and are trying to get your dog used to having baths, it may be hard not to get water in his ears. That said, it’s necessary not to wet the insides of your dog’s ears. Moisture in ears allow for frequent ear infections. You can try adding cotton balls inside the ear while bathing, and removing them afterwards. When rinsing off your dog, work from the neck downwards, and avoid the ear area. You can use a wipe or wash cloth to clean the facial area.

Ears should be inspected once a week to make sure that your dog has no ear infections. If there is any sensitivity, consult with your veterinarian.

Caution & Considerations

Consider natural ways to keep your dog’s skin conditioned. Healthy supple skin creates a base for a healthy, shiny coat. You can whip up great skin conditioners in your kitchen or purchase conditioners in your local pet store. If your dog’s skin becomes dryer after bathing, consider the shampoo you are using and look at options with better softening and conditioning agents. You do not need to use a dog shampoo each time you bathe your dog. Natural baths can level the pH of your dog’s skin leaving the skin soft and supple. Coconut oil is a bacteria-fighting oil, so if your dog’s skin condition is bacterial based, coconut oil can help soothe painful areas as well as kill bacteria that is causing itchy skin. Mixing coconut oil with other ingredients such as honey makes a great skin conditioner as well as a wash for your dog’s skin and coat. If you make a homemade conditioner, only make what you need for each treatment. Keeping natural products without preservatives is not a good idea since bacteria may begin to grow in the product. Because these are natural ingredients, just mix them for each skin conditioning session you have.